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Poblenou Barcelona:
Barcelona is not just about Sagrada Familia and the Ramblas. That’s all good of course, I have been there. There is, however, another side of Barcelona that you should definitely swing by when you visit this little big city.
I am talking about the up-and-coming town of Poblenou which means a new village in Catalan. It is part of the Sant Marti district and is bordered by the sea.
Here are some of the highlights from the accompanying podcast:
Poblenou:
Poblenou used to be an industrial town, with a lot of manufacturing and textile companies setting up shops there. Workers from other parts of Spain came there to work and it was basically abandoned when the industry went away. Squatters took up residence in the old derelict buildings as always happens. It’s still a work in progress, but that’s what makes it so exciting.
The city went through a revitalization in preparation for the 1992 Olympics. The train tracks that had separated Barcelona from the sea were removed. Barcelona suddenly became the coastal city that it should have always been.
The area is fast becoming the new it place. Artists and design companies set up shop there in the spacious lofts. The real estate market seems to be booming. Buildings in Poblenou include the Torre Agba, a 38-floor skyscraper designed by Jean Nouvel. It reminds you of the Gerkin in London.
It is, according to the designer, supposed to represent a geyser, but you can see why it has earned other names :-). It’s a sleek glass building that is done in the Barcelona colors of red and blue and is like a beacon in the city.
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What to see in Poblenou Barcelona and beyond:
The new District 22 (@22), a trendy hipster place is poised to become the Silicon Valley of Barcelona. There is a major effort to bring more innovative companies with sustainable, and practical ideas.
There is a designated urban plan to accomplish this. It’s basically a “live” test place for ideas, using the actual city. How cool is that? Plenty of tapas bars and hangouts are springing up alongside chic hotels.
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The El Encants Barcelona flea market – One of the places that have taken on a new look. It is a hybrid indoor/outdoor market. It feels outdoorsy and fresh air blows through, yet there is a glassy roof providing shade. I’ve never seen anything like it before. You can buy pretty much anything there, from used clothes to second-hand electronics to new bathroom fixtures.
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Other places include the Forum building, the DHUB, ( design museum of Barcelona). Poblenou even has its own Rambla de Poblenou, the main commercial street that goes from the Avenue Diagonal all the way to the beach.
The beach of course lends itself to a lot of water activities. We got a chance to do some paddle surfing, kayaking and sailing. I declined, as l am terrified of the water :-). so while the others went off in their wetsuits, we took a long walk and visited the nearby Ciutadella Park.
This park is the oldest and most popular park in Barcelona. It is somewhat close to the Barceloneta beach. It has the usual triumphal arch that is common in many European cities, like Berlin and Brussels.
It actually reminded me a lot of the Longchamps Palace in Marseille. It was interesting to find out that a young Gaudi (yes, that Gaudi of the famous, unfinished masterpiece that is the Sagrada) actually assisted architect Joseph Fontsere who designed it.
Gothic Quarter walking tour:
We also did a walking tour of the Gothic Quarter with our very capable guide, Xavier. I am always hesitant to use a guide when l visit places, but l must admit there is a certain something extra when you hear the history of a particular place.
For instance, l would have seen this work of art, and probably oohed for a second, maybe snap a photo, and move on. Xavier explained that this particular scene was how the city was in the old days when Barcelona was still a walled city.
Once inside the gates, the merchants had to pay taxes to conduct business. The enterprising merchants, therefore, set up shop outside of the city walls to avoid the taxes. A little later when we got to the actual remaining part of the wall, I felt a bit smug 🙂 compared to the other tourists because of my added knowledge.
I think sometimes we are so focused on trying to do our own thing, off the beaten path, that we forget there is a reason for the path in the first place. I will consider more tours going forward. I like acquiring knowledge.
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On the last day of our Barcelona visit, we visited the MNAC, the Museum of National Art of Catalonia. That was such a treat for me. You can read more about the fabulous MNAC experience that let us behind the scenes.
Let me just say that a trip to Barcelona should include checking out this museum. You get fabulous views of the city and the Olympic ring from up there. That alone makes it worthwhile.
Biking through Barcelona:
A bike tour of the city was also one of the highlights. We had a great guide from Un Menys Bicicletas. He made sure that our bikes were adjusted just right. He was so chill in the way he rode, that my confidence grew as we went along. I’m okay riding bikes and was fine when on the bike lanes.
Once off on them, however, l was nervous trying to weave my way through the many pedestrian areas that we biked through. When he felt we should walk our bikes, we did so to be safe. He had an amazing amount of energy. Between him, Xavier and Jaume, we never lost anyone in the group.
Barcelona has so many kilometers of bike lanes, a bike is a great way to get around the city. Every so often, we would stop to check out many points of interest, like the Old Jewish Quarter, the Cathedral, and the San Pau del Camp church. We also got to see the section of Litoral, where 3 parts of Barcelona actually intersected.
The old town in one part, the new part and the Poble Sec. I found it interesting that by law, the old part served alcohol and closed by 11PM, the next part at midnight, and the last past at 1AM.
It’s pretty cool because you can just move your party/drinking to the other parts and just carry on :-). The demographics changed as well. As we walked deeper into the old town, you saw more residential, working-class neighborhoods, as opposed to the tourist areas.
Where to stay in Barcelona:
The Barcelo Sants hotel is a cool, space theme style hotel. It kind of had a Jetsons TV show vibe to it. The rooms are luxurious in this true 4 star hotel. The bed was big and had many fluffy pillows. There was soft lighting illuminating the room. The ambiance made for a peaceful place to crash after full days of discovering the city.
The hotel is ultra convenient as it sits almost atop the Sants train station. Direct line to the airport? Yep! You can’t beat that. The staff were so nice and there are computers that you can use, right in the lobby.
There is also a big screen TV and plenty of seats. I had about four hours to kill after we were done with the activities. I chose to hang out in the lobby, watch some television and catch up on my emails etc online, thanks to the free wifi.
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Another option of good hotels in Poblenou Barcelona is the Travelodge Barcelona Poblenou. The prices are reasonable and the location is great. Nowadays, with the AirBnB debacle where the locals are rebelling against short term lets, you might want to consider staying at hotels in Barcelona. Don’t be surprised if the prices are very competitive.
[box] CLICK TO FIND THE BEST HOTELS IN POBLENOU BARCELONA [/box]
The Food in Barcelona: (Where to eat in Barcelona)
- Andreu for the best jamon Iberico
- El Cangrejo Loco for amazing seafood and paella
- W Hotel for the most delicious burgers and fries
- Fabrica Moritz for German inspired cuisine and microbrewery
I will just show you in pictures some of the amazing food that we had in Barcelona. I don’t think l had anything that wasn’t exceptional. Tapas, seafood, and burgers were all great. The ultra delicious Iberico ham at Andreu? Fantastico!!!
The seafood Fideua at the El Cangrejo Loco? Insanely good. By the way, Fideua is about to overtake Paella as my favorite Spanish food. I freaking love it! It’s like paella but made with what looks like little short noodles. It is served with Alliolli sauce, a mixture of garlic, olive oil and egg yolk.
This experience was a fantastic way to discover a different side of Barcelona. I felt the same thrill when we discovered the Born neighborhood. I get why everyone says Barcelona is an awesome place now :-). I hope this encourages you to step outside the usual touristy things to do, and discover places off the beaten path.
If you’re ready for the expat life in Spain, make sure to buy your copy of our guide that walks you through the requirements.
Pinnable:
Have you been to Poblenou? Or Barcelona? Or Spain? Share your experience with us if yes, if not…would you like to visit?
Lovely write-up and I especially loved the bit about the walled city artwork! You’re so right about us wanting to sometimes do our own thing, that we forget how much knowledge can be learned. I’m also not keen on tours, but this was great! I’ve been living in Barcelona for about 10 months and never knew some of the historical facts you spoke about here. Thanks for that!
Thanks Gloria. How nice to hear that from a “local” :-). I hope you are enjoying Barcelona. It really is a beautiful city, and so much history. I think l am, going forward going to squeeze in a walking tour, especially because quite a few cities have free ones that you tip afterwards. I loved picking up little tidbits. Thanks for the comment 🙂
KemKem, Great writing and photos capturing and illuminating the wonderful experiences we shared in #Barcelona post #TBEX2015. You’re amazing!
Thanks Aysha for the comment. I tried to remember everything, and wouldn’t you know l misplaced my little notebook :-(. It was fun hanging out with you and the group and your little companion too!!!
Thanks for this insight into a side of Barcelona I would never have known about!
It was fun to discover a different side of the bustling city! I like it so much better now. Thanks for the comment.
I’ve become a HUGE fan of podcasts this year, makes any walk or subway ride so much fun! Will for sure have to check this out!
I’m so glad to hear that about the podcasts :-). I agree that it does make time go faster. Sometimes my eyes are just too tired. Let me know how they come across..
I definitely love the architecture! My husband is obsessed with Barcelona and Spain in general. It’s definitely on our list!
I’m sure you’ll get here soon enough! Does he like the football team as well? We’ll keep the Sangria and Beer cold for you 🙂
I love how sleek that hotel room looks. Kinda unrelated, do you listen to the podcast Stuff You Missed in History Class, they had a 2 part series on Antoni Gaudi that I think you might enjoy Part 1- https://www.missedinhistory.com/podcasts/antoni-gaudi-part-1/ Part 2- https://www.missedinhistory.com/podcasts/antoni-gaudi-part-2/
I have to check it out. I have never heard of it before. Thanks for the link, and l like the title too :-). The bed was awesome. All the beds here are not big enough, it was so nice to be on a king size bed again 🙂
It looks fabulous! You really got to see a great angle and side of Barcelona. I love the photos and the food looks yum and of course, it was great seeing you out there. I looooove walking tours and now you know why LOL!
It was quite lovely seeing you too. Sorry about your plane troubles, l was reading about it yesterday, on the way back too? Just the worst luck, but at least you’re back home. From now on, yes, l think walking tours are in order..:-)
This was such a great post about Barcelona, I almost feel like crying. I loved that place SO much when I was there and I wanted to go back for a couple months… alas, I cannot this time :'(
The food you ate looks amazing! I may have to get a list off you when I do go back ha!
Awwhhh..that is so nice to hear. Thanks so much :-). I really enjoyed this visit a lot too, and definitely makes me want to go back. No worries, l will be more than happy to give you the list, anything to relieve those awesome experiences and talk about food. I hope you get a chance to visit soon. Thanks so much for the comment.
I miss flea markets so much! Actually any second hand shopping would be amazing! I love this post and am going to pin it for sure!
I know what you mean. There used to be a really cool one at the Rose Bowl monthly that l used to love. I didn’t get anything in Barcelona. We took a Ryanair flight. Next time we go, we will take a train..then look out :-). At the risk of sounding like a total newbie, what does it mean to pin a post? I thought you could only pin pictures. I am so out of my element with Pinterest.. 🙁 Any light you could shed on this would be appreciated..
The train sounds like a great idea! For many reasons!
When you add a pin to pinterest, you can add a picture, or you can pin a post from the web… heres some instructions on how to, I think this may help explain it better than I can https://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/pinning-a-web-page-without-the-pinterest-pin-it-bu.html
Thanks for that link. I will study it.
Great post, Kemkem! I always believe in doing a guided tour when exploring a new city because it gives such great context. I love free walking tours or tours that are more intimate with few tourists. That fideua looks awesome! I recently found a recipe for shrimp fideua which I’ll be trying my hand at in the next few days.
Going forward, l am going to add a tour to the itinerary. I love finding out little things that you wouldn’t ordinarily discover yourself. Send a care package of the fideua so l can compare.. :-). I love it so much now. Thanks for the comment!
Damn, the food looks great – especially since I’ve got a cold and Spanky about to make me soup :(. Would love to have some paella.
Nice post Kemkem!
Frank (bbqboy)
Lol! Sorry you’re feeling under the weather :-(. Hope you get better soon. I’m sure Spanky’s soup would be better than paella right now. You can have that soon enough 🙂
I am glad you posted this. We will be going to Barcelona in October. We are adding a day to cover Poblenou, especially the El Encant flea market!
Cool! You’ll love the El Encant. If you like seafood, make sure to go to the top floor, there was a place that sold calamari etc in little wrapped paper to go. Absolutely amazing.
I’ve only had a short time in Barcelona – I haven’t seen Poblenou or the Gothic Quarter. Next time perhaps!
Definitely put it on the list for next time 🙂 . Man does not live by the Ramblas alone..hahah!
Okay, I am sitting here drooling on myself thanks to those food photos of yours! I gained a couple pounds just reading this post alone! Thanks for the information on a part of Barcelona I’d never considered visiting before and I love the looks of that flea market (okay I just typed ‘food market’ and caught the typo – obviously the food left an impression on me) and I love the wonderful old Gothic Quarter photo as well. You gave me new tips, old memories and a deep hunger – a great post!! xxx J.
Hahah! I hope you had some Kleenex handy! It was definitely to discover Poblenou as it has not yet become so overcrowded with tourists. That flea market is huge, and it does have food kiosks on the top floor, so you’re not too far off. I hope you get to check out the area on your next visit, you won’t regret it.