Olumo Rock in Abeokuta was our last tourist destination during our recent visit to Nigeria. This very popular tourist attraction, which I’d heard of but never visited was a welcome delight. Abeokuta is the capital of Ogun State. It is about 80 miles from Lagos. Federico was keen to see it, so we put it on the agenda.
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My vision of a smallish rock was shattered when l saw just how big this “rock”was. Ginormous is a better word. I suppose the name Abeokuta which literally translates to “under the rock” should have given me a clue…. Duh!
Olumo Rock view from the bottom:
It really wasn’t that hard to find rocks once we got into the city because there are quite a few big ones spread all around that could be seen from the car. There was no mistake however when we pulled up to the right rock. It is located off the main road at the back of a very busy market where the shopkeepers sell tie-dye fabric and ready made gowns for which the city is famous. My sister got to do a bit of haggling as she bought some fabric The area is very well known for their locally dyed fabric. It’s not unusual for people to come from faraway states to purchase huge quantities for weddings and other events where they have aso-ebi (people wearing the same fabric, be it families, colleagues, siblings to differentiate themselves from other guests. You can see what l mean on this post on Nigerian engagement). I was instructed not to speak. Had l done so, the price would have been jacked up tremendously due to my accent.
In 2006, the then governor of the state had two elevators erected at the sight to ferry people up and down. Coincidentally, he owned an elevator company 😉 and it cost the people a pretty penny to install. Since he is no longer in office, they have fallen into disrepair and are no longer in use. Everyday, they tell the people it “just” broke down when in actuality they haven’t functioned for a couple of years at least :-).
Olumo Rock: Stupendous Views
Olumo Abeokuta History:
Abeokuta is an ancient city and Olumo Rock was used as a fortress in those early times. The Egba people were the first to settle there and in fact crevices in the rock were used as hiding places during the many inter-tribal wars in the early 19th century. From the high grounds, (137 meters above sea level), they were able to spot their enemies and they eventually triumphed. They named the rock Olumo which means “All the troubles and sufferings were over” according to the guide. This might be true in their dialect. In mine, Olumo means “God knows”.
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Growing up and having to learn my native language Yoruba was very difficult. This is because we make use of these accents and dots under the letters giving completely different words for the same spelling so a word like “Ole” off the top of my head can mean “It’s hard” or “Lazy” or “you didn’t chase her/him” or “thief” or “there’s excess” just to name a few. Now, imagine my mom asking me to read the Bible in Yoruba! Absolute torture for a kid. The town eventually grew as settlers moved under the rock and spread out. The city of Abeokuta now has about half a million inhabitants.
Federico climbed up with the driver and guides and he absolutely loved it. The views are spectacular from up there from his images. The guides showed him the hiding places of the tribes whenever there was a war. He had to crouch as they were really low (less than 3 feet in places). I would have been so claustrophobic, but fear is a great motivator.
Olumo Rock Caves:
The climb to the top of the rock takes about twenty minutes. There are stairs to get you started, but at some point, that changes to holding on to rock surfaces and hoping you don’t fall. It is worth noting that there hasn’t been a fall since the rock was discovered because they believe God has been protecting them. The rock used to produce healing water during the rainy season according to the guides, but 50 years ago, it suddenly stopped, and not a drop since then.
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There used to be guardians of the rock which consisted of elderly people born there, but they have all died and the tradition with them. The burial place of the last elder is still up there.
The Museum at the rock
The grounds of Olumo Rock include a small museum displaying local goods and art work. We visited it and got to see some interesting carvings and locally made jewelry, a weakness for my sister so she shopped. One of the other things that is plenty in this very fertile area is pure Shea butter (Ori). Shea butter is an all around wonderful product as it softens the skin, possesses anti-inflammatory as well as healing properties. Most people use it on babies and is really expensive in the western world when it’s pure. l purchased some to bring back with me at a very reasonable price.
It was a really pleasant way to spend a day. This excursion in addition to the Sacred Grove and Waterfalls really added to the enjoyment of our visit. Maybe if they ever fix the elevators, I might go higher :-).
There is also a restaurant with nice views of the city to get refreshments and local food. We had lunch there and loved the food. Once done, and before we left, we walked around the grounds a little and jut enjoyed the wide open spaces. A very nice way to spend a day in Nigeria.
Entry fee to Olumo Rock Abeokuta is roughly $9.50 converted because we had professional cameras which l think is a little too high :-). If you love hiking, you would definitely enjoying hiking up the historic Olumo Rock.
All you brave souls out there. Would you climb one of the biggest rocks in Africa, the monumental Olumo Rock Abeokuta in light of the fact that you have to crawl in some places?
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Awesome read! Loved it! I would climb up/crawl up. I couldn’t go under it. That’s faith and acceptance beyond my heart rate’s capabilities! The cultural aspects you presented were so, I can’t think of a word (English, Yoruba, spanish, or otherwise, LOL!)…let’s say neat, eye-opening, interesting due to the differences. Like the elevator being “JUST” broken. Or how you couldn’t speak or else your accent would get your sister charged extra for her beautiful cloth. And how elders for so long cared for the rock. And so on. THAT’S what makes travel!—–Terri
You’re braver than l pictured Terri 🙂 . Even if l didn’t look back while climbing, I would be thinking of the return journey and freak out 🙂 and for sure, l would not have gone under..haha! Yeah, l always get the tourist price whenever we go shopping so l’m always told to shut up. Yeah, the guy who had driven us makes the journey very often and he says it’s the same thing they say all the time. I’m so glad you commented, l always love the little nuances that you spot. Thanks for that :-).
🙂
I love hiking. Love it. Can’t wait to do it with four “ducks” behind me (kids).
Not moi! Excessive use of energy. I like bicycling and walking. 🙂
Of course, eating at a good restaurant is awesome too! Mm-mmm.
But of course!!! 🙂
Hahaha talk about a coincidence! I was thinking well done Kemkem for exploring her roots & I was racking my brains to recall if I had ever seen anything touristy there!
It looks the same yet different. The rock of course is unchanged & I still recall the restaurant but the arts shop is new to me. Typical maintenance issues- why so hard to fix the elevators:-/
Loving these series! I lived in Ibadan for some years and have fond memories:-). So nice you spent quality time there with the family.
Admit it..you were reading my mind :-). It’s so silly of them not to repair the elevators, especially since there was an extra charge to use it. The little shop was very quite with a little bit of everything. I have fond memories of Ibadan too, totally prefer it over Lagos. I enjoy the slower pace of life there. I am looking forward to visiting more often, priceless times :-).
These pictures are amazing! You and hubby have the best trips.
Thanks Tanya. We do try 🙂
Really enjoyed this one Kemkem. We would absolutely have had to make the climb, uncomfortable as it may have been. Federico sure looked like he enjoyed it. It is really quite interesting that you weren’t allowed to speak – we can’t imagine what we would have been charged! The elevator installation would be funny if it weren’t such a statement on using power. Cheers, Tim & Anne
Thanks a lot. For sure you guys would have gotten even higher prices :-). I don’t mind it at all, they just go for what they can get. After all, you pay what the item is worth to you. I’ve been known to overpay when little kids are doing the selling. Im sure that elevator is never going to get fixed anytime soon, which is just ridiculous. A total power play. Federico really did enjoy it and he can’t wait to find other neat things to enjoy.
Wow, what a beautiful hike! Nigeria is truly a beautiful place to visit.
It really has a lot of beautiful places and amazingly rich culture.
Another amazingly interesting place! Thanks for sharing! The views are worth all the trouble indeed – they’re really spectacular, even though the claustrophobic work areas for grinding spices would definitely keep me away 🙂 I’m too paranoid and I’d always worry that those rocks would fall down and squash me… even though they’re there for hundreds of years…
Thanks for sharing your thoughts C. The views were lovely from my viewpoint, but you’re right..definitely better from up there. That mosque is pretty far away, and it seems the views go on forever. I definitely would not have gone in those caves either even though l know chances of being quashed are nil, but why take chances? I’m with you on the paranoia 🙂
Hmmm – a government official who owns an elevator company installing elevators on the people’s dime? Kind of goes with the dual translations of the word olumo! Depending on the person talking, it’s rather handy to have a couple of different spins on the meaning. As for climbing the rock – going up I might be able to do but that coming down thing without a rail would have had me inching down on my butt. That is one huge rock! Thanks for writing about Nigeria and introducing me to another side of the country not covered by the news. Anita
Yeah..those politicians don’t play. What really annoys me is that everybody knows they are going to steal when they get power, but they still everything and don’t give anything to the people. How much money does a person need? They get it out of the country and in turn are protected by the big banks who refuse to release the money. I would have had a heart attack coming down, not after seeing the pictures of him climbing. That is one fear l probably wouldn’t have been able to conquer. Thanks for reading :-).
Corruption is a sad thing for the ordinary folk, being from Brazil I know well about all these deals that are never to benefit the town citizens. Well done Frederico for braving the great Rock. I love hiking to higher places and getting a birds eye view, so this climb would be right up my street. I am enjoying finding more about Nigeria via your blog posts, thanks Kemkem.
Thank you for reading and adding your input. Corruption is a disease of so many places, even the first world ones. They just hide it better 🙂 . You are brave as well as l would have shied away from going up and even if l managed it, coming down would have been something else entirely…haha! I would be very entertaining as l would scream all the way down ;-).
Fredrico is quite the daredeveil. whew. I am glad he went to take pictures, cause I could never see the top of that thing, let alone go under it… LOL. a beuatiful view though!
He certainly is, which works out because daredevil l am not :-). Haha! exactly. I was glad he went because otherwise l might just be describing rather than showing.. Haha!!!! 🙂
Such picturesque photos! Thank you for sharing your experience!
Thanks for reading and for the compliment. 🙂
Federico really seemed to love it. He looks like a sweaty mess in that last photo.
I like all the red roofs in town and its nice seeing that buildings all over town are in the same color patterns.
You both seem to have really enjoyed your time in Nigeria!
Frank (bbqboy)
Yep..he was a sweaty mess. Our “winter” or Hamattan season as it’s called means the temperature dips to like 36 degrees celsius. It was hot as a mother. I loved the red roofs too and wondered how that was possible. In Ibadan for instance, they are mostly brown. It almost looked like it was on purpose. We had a blast :-). Thanks for the comment and hope you guys are enjoying your current location. (I know you are from the pictures :-)).
Looks like Federico had a wonderful time. I couldn’t go inside, it’s too tight/cramped in there. The elevators (lol) were of an interesting design to say the least. Great pictures.
Haha! I said the same thing about the elevators and wondered if it could have been done as one to save money..Sure he would have done 5 if he could.. :-). Yeah.. I would definitely not have gone under the rock, but he liked it. 🙂
This looks like it was an amazing adventure. How awesome to see the city from this view.
I had a nice view, but yes..his from up there was way better. It really was one of our better visits. 🙂
I feel like, I just went on an amazing virtual field trip with you. I am definitely encouraged to learn more about different cultures.
So glad you could join us on this virtual tour 🙂 . There is so much stuff out there, we are barely scratching the surface.
Stunning! I’ve never seen a rock so big, but it holds such beauty. I would have gone up to the top too girl. The elevator piece was funny, politics are everywhere. I was fascinated by you not speaking so the price doesn’t go up due to your accent. I’m so fascinated by other cultures.
You are one brave soul! Haha! You couldn’t get me up that and you certainly would have to carry me down! Yeah..politicians suck. I just wander how much it will take for the uprising, they have caused so much damage by stealing, a lot of parents are having to bring their kids back home because absolutely zero..zilch..nada is allowed to be transfered out of the country. The recession is crushing, but we keep suffering and smiling :-).
Wow, I love seeing pics of your travels. You two go to some beautiful and exciting places for sure!
Thanks Latoya. We certainly try to :-).
Awesome post ! Thank you for publish 🙂
Thanks a lot for reading. 😉
I am welcome 🙂 And if you like travels I invite to follow my blog. I just start my adventure in wordpress, but I already published few trip posts from Spain and Italy 🙂
Wish you all the best and a lot of good trips.
Will do 🙂 and l wish you the same.
Wow that looks beautiful, but scary to climb. I have to give him credit for trying it out – I would be excited too!
Yep! It was scary enough for me. No..thank you! Glad he went for the pictures though 🙂
I’m not the outdoorsy type, but this looks like fun times. I’d love to visit Nigeria some day.
Me neither. I am definitely not the outdoorsy type but l’m getting to like it more and more. It was fun 🙂
Africa can be a country sometimes…when it comes to markets in Kenya it is best to have a local who can bargain on your behalf, the sight of someone who looks let alone sounds foreign can automatically double the price.
Haha! Nice to know it’s the same all over. They can’t wait to take advantage :-). I always shut up now, even when they talk directly to me.
‘Love the post. I like reading about history and the anthropology of a people. I also like learning about African art. I’m just so happy that it was finally accepted that African Art, although different to Western Art, is Art. And has been in existence for thousands of years! What a shame that the elders are no longer there. Their stories would surely be amazing! It looks like Federico had a fine old time leaping and jumping!
Would I attempt crawling under those rocks? Probably!
I can totally see you climbing and going under the rock! Your sense of adventure would propel you on :-). Yes, African art is definitely art, true art if you ask me. They have withstood the test of time. Yeah..it would have been nice if the elders were still there, even though apparently there is an old woman who lives somewhere under the rock and claims to be 130 years old but l think the age is exaggerated as she looks maybe 90 or so to me (youtube video). She is not an elder, but sure she still has stories :-).