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If anyone had told me that Nigeria has a UNESCO World Heritage Site, l would have scoffed. I had certainly never read nor heard about that. All we seem to hear about is Boko Haram and Internet Scammers. Our recent visit to Nigeria where we spent the most of December was an enlightening one.
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Not only did we get to visit with family, but we also traveled short distances from our bases in Ibadan and Lagos to visit some of the cultural landmarks including the Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove. The grove is located in the South West of Nigeria and is one of the last remaining ones in the country. Most groves have been abandoned thanks to population growth and in my opinion, more westernized religion and the dying off of old people.
Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove History:
To get a good understanding of the history of Osun Osogbo sacred grove, you have to understand the culture of the Yoruba people (of which I am one). They are the dominating ethnic group in the South West and are believed to number about 50 million. They believe in one Supreme Being by the name of Olodumare.
There are almost 200 deities called Orisa. These deities are usually natural occurrences in the environment. For example, the deity of thunder is called Sango (that would be Thor to you 🙂 ). The deity or Orisa of fertility is called Osun. According to the Yoruba folklore, Osun had a fight with one of the wife of Sango and changed herself into the Osun River. The grove is considered sacred since the deity is still believed to live within the river.
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The Osun-Osogbo sacred grove was discovered by an elephant hunter during an expedition. An agreement was made between the goddess and the people. Osun would protect the people if they built a shrine for her and protect the grove. Devotees brought offerings to the goddess and women came for blessings if they were barren.
This went on for years until Christianity and Muslim religions came into play. The Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove would have fallen by the wayside like most other groves during the colonial era had it not been for the efforts of an Austrian artist by the name of Susanne Wenger. She and several other local artists made and erected huge sculptures on the grounds of the grove saving it from demolition. These sculptures were made of mud, iron and cement on purpose to prevent looting and destruction by the religious nut jobs. . Ms Wenger was revered by the people who believed that Osun herself had sent her to save the grove. She married a local native drummer and spent the rest of her life in Osogbo.
The Osun Osogbo grove covers 75 hectares and there are many plant species (over two hundred) to be found there. We saw plenty of birds and insects, not to mention absolutely adorable little monkeys. Thankfully, I did not know there were a lot of reptiles there until afterwards as we walked through some of the paths, otherwise l might have stayed behind. The grove became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.
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Some of the sights we saw included:
The First Palace at Osun Osogbo:
This is the first palace that the King of Osogbo lived in. We did not go inside the palace as there was a mean looking woman doing incantations out front and demand an absurd amount of money to enter (in addition to the entrance fee we had already paid). There is the original sacred stone stool that is over 500 years old. Though l don’t believe in deities, l also know l have seen some really, really weird stuff that still blows my mind till today and makes me wonder if there is something to it. Suffice to say, l wasn’t about to find out :-).
The River Osun:
Part of it is still used for ritual cleansing by worshipers. We saw one during our visit and were requested not to take photographs. The wider part of the river is quite nice. Very relaxing. The suspension bridge, which was built in 1935 during colonial times is kind of freaky..it vibrated as you moved on it which was a bit unnerving. There are a total of ten Osun worship points along the river beds in the whole grove.
The Iya Maapo at Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove:
This is the goddess of women entrepreneurship and might. She is believed to have magical powers and is said to fly. She also has two messengers who deliver her messages to the other deities. She is the guard of the grove. You can see her three pairs of arms which are used to perform various feats depending on whats needed. They represent:
Advice
Regret
Blessing
We also saw many sacred areas belonging to different deities. Memory fails me as to which one is what so l don’t want to give you the wrong information, so l will just show you the pictures of some that l do remember :-).
Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove Goddess of Fertility:
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Osun Osogbo Festival Yearly Event:
Once a year, there is the Osun Osogbo Festival which I’m told is a very colourful must see. It goes on for 12 days! and people from all over the country and in fact world make the pilgrimage to attend. The deities are still worshiped by people all over, especially descendants of slaves who were taken to other countries.
On the 11th day of the festival, the chosen maiden (my Yoruba sucks and l couldn’t translate if she meant just a girl or a virgin) enters the inner part of the Osun temple where she stays till the end. On the 12th and final day, this maiden who represents the soul and life force of the deity returns the Osun shrine.
During this very long walk back, she has to hold two bitter kola nuts in her mouth (so she can’t speak of the rapture experienced), she can not stumble (otherwise all humankind will suffer for the following year). I definitely couldn’t do it. I hate kola nuts! :-).
It was amazing and eye opening to experience this sacred grove and to learn the history of Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove. I find it interesting that these native practices still exist. I was fascinated with some of the medicinal plants that were there.
My grandfather was a herbalist. The one the villagers went to when ill. He would mix tree barks and plants and make you drink the potion. Totally brings back horrible memories for me. Never once did that stuff taste like chocolate. Nope! It was more like raw sewage mixed with liquid poop, bath water and more raw sewage! 🙁 . It usually took at least 3 adults to catch me and pour that stuff down my throat. You were given potions to stay healthy as well! Yuck!!!
My mum always said for a fat kid, I could run like the wind when it came to taking medication. No wonder I ended up being a pharmacist..right? !!! 🙂 ;-). I am proud that this place lives on as it is part of our history.
The entrance fee is roughly $3 converted. If you have a professional camera, you need to pay an extra $10. Please remember, if the tell you not to take photographs of certain rituals or places, respect that. A lot of people still believe that taking pictures of them takes away their souls.
What do you think of this Nigeria UNESCO heritage site, the historic Osun Osogbo Sacred Grove? Do you believe in deities that are messengers of God or at least acknowledge that they exist?
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Wow! I had no idea that this place even existed – thank you for a terrific post!
Thank you for reading! I was just as shocked. Pleased as punch though..makes me proud!
Very interesting post. There is so much history out there that needs to be shared with the world. Thanks for sharing.
You’re right Bola, we should be sharing. For so long, we’ve only every heard bad news about the country. Every visit from now on, l will try and find the good things. It’s a great country despite all its problems. Nowadays, show me a lace without warts :-). Thanks for the comment.
I’ve always found it interesting that most beliefs and ancient religions seem to have a “Goddess of Fertility” but it looks like someone anticipated the extra work by creating “The Guardian” with the three pairs of arms! This post was fascinating and it must have been fun to learn more about your own heritage and country. And next time you visit your family, maybe you can time it to coincide with the Osun Osogbo Festival! Anita
I am definitely going to try and see the festival. It must be pretty good as it is known throughout the country and beyond. Imagine being the guardian, it sure is a lot of responsibility! Oh…people love having kids! World pastime that l just don’t get! ;-). It was exciting to learn more about my heritage for sure and l like sharing it. Beauty instead of all the corruption and scammer stories :-).
Interesting, love the sculptures in from of the First Palace.
Hey Kemkem, suspension bridges tend to vibrate, even swing when you walk on them. That’s what they do 😉
Love your guide’s braided hair. I always like the way African women dress, the colourful colours, headscarfs etc..
Frank (bbqboy)
Haha! Who knew..it’s been over 25 years since l walked on the Golden Gate bridge or any other for that matter. Come to think of it, l don’t remember any vibration on the tower of London bridge. maybe there were just too many people and l didn’t feel it, but nice to know :-). I almost did the braids while there as it is so cheap, the downside is that when l get back home, it’s just me that has to remove it..hours!!! so l shaved my head instead :-).
That’s neat. I looked up a smidge more about it, intrigued. And as always, your wit and social commentary always make an interesting, delightful read. I had to work kind of hard to not feel guilty, Western religion. 🙂 But I got over it, as I move in peace the best I can. And I remembered that the Austrian, although an outsider and European, brought back unity and sanctity to the grove for the people. So if we all work together, I know we can make things happen.——-I don’t know about walking over a bridge that old. Whew! Had it been refurbished or anything? And were there any bigger reptiles in that river you had to walk over? :-)——-Terri
Thanks Terri! I was really impressed with the place and so glad the Austrian lady was able to make things happen. Yes, if we come together, we certainly can make things happen. I wish more people would realize that instead of working to divide the people in general..religion etc.. Live your life and it you have nothing positive..piss off :-). Nope…that bridge has not been refurbished, my sister was like no and refused to walk on it. Oh my.. I did not even think of reptiles in the river 🙂 🙂 otherwise l most definitely would not have walked on the rickety thing!
I’m with your sister. Not to mention she looked like a lot of fun sitting on that fertility statue! Tell her she’d better be careful sitting on that!
Amazing! Very Interesting and rich in culture and history!
It certainly is!
Haha! Well she’s totally too old for it to work on her. She says she will pass it on to her 3 kids because she wants more grand kids :-).
How interesting! It’s cool to see the work of your ancestors history and learn about their culture too.
Yes, it was quite informative. To think this way of thinking has survived thousands of years all over the world 🙂
Amazing grove! AND I just noticed your “When Life Hands You A Pile of Poo” ebook and am SO intrigued to read it, what a catchy title, Kemkem!!! Massive kudos for moving and shaking in the blog/writing world, my friend!
Haha! Thanks so much Jess! I am trying to move and shake as you say. It’s like after years of decompressing, l woke up from my stupor and feel fired up, now if l can only figure out how .. 🙂 . I hope Baby A is doing well. What a cutie 🙂 🙂 .
I would not go anywhere near that fertility statue, no thanks. I would however go have a chat about troubled kids. I can’t ever have enough prayer honey. I certainly needed a different perspective of Nigeria. I know one place can’t be all bad but I hadn’t really seen its beauty.
Haha! i wasn’t about to go near it either! 🙂 . I know, kids will work you till the last nerve won’t they? I totally have lots of respect for you parents!!!! I’m so glad it gave you a nice perspective. Nigeria has a lot of problems, but a lot of beauty squeezed in as well :-).
Wow, this is such a beautiful location! So rich in history! You also look absolutely gorgeous!
Haha! Thanks.. I will pass the compliment on to my sister :-). It is definitely rich in history.
Such an interesting place! I had no idea it existed and it seems really amazing. A bit spooky I’d say – definitely not a place where I’d like to find myself in alone at night 🙂 Thanks for sharing all the details – it’s always nice to find a bit about the hidden and amazing treasures from over the world!
I was really surprised to hear such a place existed. In my mind it seemed that all those practices were just gone. I for sure am like you, l wouldn’t want to be there at night. It was really nice to sightsee in my own country. We do it so much everywhere else we go, it felt good to see our beauty and weirdness.
As a self proclaimed culture junkie this was right up my alley. Your descriptions were very detailed. This looks like it’d be a wonderful and worthwhile journey away from the larger cities in Nigeria. Thanks for sharing.
So glad you liked the post Keisha. Thank you. It was nice getting away from the larger cities and seeing the life in the really rural areas. I was intrigued because even the little village we come from seems to have grown by leaps and bounds, it was nice to see the past so to speak. I really enjoyed it.
You learn somethin new everyday! Those sculptures are very detailed!
They certainly are. I loved them 🙂
Amazing and informative read! Actually Nigeria features quite high on our travel wish list. Most people think we are crazy, when we mention it. And it is one of the countries that are not really covered neither on blogs nor in the travel media.
Thank you so much. You’re right, you absolutely never see anything written about Nigeria sadly, but with brave folk like you guys, it will slowly change :-). I have a couple more posts to write and l hope you guys will contact me when you head over there.
We will! Thank you.