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Amsterdam is usually spoken of as a must see place. The canals! the art! the hip areas! the red light district! the ease of getting pot and hash! the museums! ..etc…etc. It’s on everyone’s list of “breathtaking”ย places, you feel that you are definitely missing something if you don’t experience it in all its glory. It’s always on the best places before you die articles that l see.
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Update: The i love Amsterdam sign in Museumplein is no more. The letters have been removed as the city cracks down on over tourism in the center. The sign moves every so often to different places to focus on other areas, so do a quick search and you can still take your selfies wherever it “pops” up.
Amsterdam is Ordinary: Why I think so
Beauty of the Canals in Amsterdam:
I’m not sure if l am just jaded from all my travels, and l’m sure a lot of people would disagree with me, but l was actually meh about the whole place. I didn’t hate it, but l didn’t love it either.ย ย I wanted to. I just couldn’t do it. I can’t quite put my finger on what it was either. It was just … okay..for me anyway .. sorry.. ๐ .
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We arrived on a pleasantly warm and sunny day. It was quite easy to make our way from the airport to where we stayed. A suburb that was just 10 minutes by train to the center, in a lovely AirBnB rental. There was a misunderstanding with the actual stop to get off, so we ended up having to walk an extra half a kilometer. The lovely hostess met us halfway, and we walked back to the flat together, where she familiarized us with the place. We quickly dropped off our bags and took off to explore the city.
The canals of Amsterdam, l must admit, are very nice. It’s easy to imagine yourself floating down them in a boat, sipping wine and eating cheese as we saw so many people doing. Maybe after seeing Venice and its lovely (but stinky ๐ )canals, l wasn’t very impressed. I actually prefer the canals in Berlin. They are pretty, and there are countless numbers of them all winding through the city, but..they were just okay. Nothing to make me say “l am so glad l came here specifically for the canals”.
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Amsterdam Museums:
I had been looking forward to visiting the Anne Frank house. I wanted to see the place where this little girl found shelter from the Nazis. The line though, was insanely long. I simply refuse to wait in line for 2 hours for anything. We chose to take a picture of the outside and one next to her little stature and call it a day. Same for the Van Gogh museum. I am a huge fan of his work, but we had just seen a few of his masterpieces at the National Gallery in London for free, so there was really no urgency to go there.
Easy access to drugs in Amsterdam:
I don’t know about this one much, but l did see users running around in the parks as well as the bums that stand outside and watch as you eat.
We did visit the Foam Photography museum. That was quite enjoyable. Since Federico is a photographer, he especially loved it.. We spent several hours roaming around and reading past issues of their magazine. It was definitely worth the โฌ11 per person price of admission for us and l would recommend that.
Amsterdam is pricey: (What to eat in Amsterdam)
The one thing that struck us was how expensive Amsterdam is! A bottle of water (33cl) cost โฌ2 at the convenience stores, while they were an average of โฌ4-6 at the restaurants. Most of them had little signs that said “we do not serve tap water as a matter of hygiene” or something similar.ย Really?? The tap water is completely drinkable mind you. We survived just fine on it . It was cheaper to drink beer than water, but how much beer can one person drink?… don’t answer that!! ๐ฎ ) .
We tried to go off the beaten path and find where the locals ate, but we failed miserably. They were all costly. We had okay Mexican food for 2 at a cost of โฌ70. A plain burger, fries and a coke cost โฌ12 each for lunch. They did have good Indonesian food though, it’s true what everyone says. We didn’t get to go to the Anthony Bourdain Amsterdam episode restaurant had eaten at. Just as well as we hear it’s โฌ49 per person on the average, we ate the same ย Rijstafel menu for โฌ28 and โฌ22 each on separate occasions.
Maybe we’re just cheap, but l don’t know how regular people survive living in Amsterdam. The wages must be astronomical. Average one bedroom prices in the city run around โฌ1500 according to one of the nice local bartenders we chatted with. Yikes! He said most people lived outside the city and commuted. Our hostess confirmed just how expensive the city was. It’s true that we expected things to be a bit expensive, but it was a whole lot more expensive.
Unless you’re sleeping in hostels, eatingย breadย and jelly for lunch or something, you are likely to spend โฌ100 per person per day, even more if you are not very careful. I think at our ages, we are too old for that backpacking, will sleep with 10 people in a room hostel kind of life, so that brings the cost up a lot. If you’re young and can still enjoy the backpacking kind of life, then Amsterdam is a great place to visit.
We did find a good selection of cuisine in Amsterdam, none particularly outstanding even though we enjoyed the Indonesian food mostly.
Red Light District Amsterdam:
The red light district wasn’t very impressive either. The women looked tired, and old, not age wise, but a weariness that l noticed. There were the usual crowds of young men hollering, drunk and probably stoned as well, milling about, but l didn’t see any of them actually go in with the girls. It makes me wonder if there is enough money in that profession. I bet half of the guys lose their nerve and do not engage the girls. It makes for a good fairy taleย though to tell their friends back home. I mean who’s going to challenge them?
Guess where we saw all the men in the area? Yep! the bars were packed with them! ๐ . Federico went to use the restroom at one of the places and l was the only girl in there. The only one!!! Haha! same place they spend their time at home!!! They will however tell wild tales of the amazing sex they had with the hookers ๐ . I’m not judging, everyone has the right to make a living, and it is legal.ย We saw people going in to see the live sex acts at like noon on Sunday.. new religion perhaps?
Update: Tours of the Red Light District has been banned by the city. Not sure why anyone would want to take a tour anyway when they can just walk through on their own.
Is Amsterdam worth visiting?
Where to go in Amsterdam include:
- Van Gogh museum, a โฌ19 entrance fee, but if you are an art lover, worth it. Best to purchase tickets in advance as there is limited number of daily entry.
- Anne Frank House – historic and tragic chapter in history.
- Dam Square – the center of the city.
- Vondel Park – Expansive park with an open-air theatre.
- Jordaan Neighbourhood – latest trendy area for shopping and hip cafes.
- Royal Palace Amsterdam.
What is Amsterdam like?
Amsterdam to me feels just like any of the dozens of other European cities and is nothing special. I always wonder how one city cleverly takes all the praise and equally desrving places are completely ignored and travelers are made to feel like they are missing something. Lisbon gets the love for example, but Porto is just as deserving, and on and on.
I think Amsterdam is worth visiting andย a great place if you’re young, and want to be a hipster or do stuff before you settle down. As an adult, I think most would be hard pressed to love it, but that is just my opinion. Don’t hate me for it. Perhaps we just missed the really really fantastic bits. I’m glad l went. Would l go again? Probably not. It is not my cup of tea so to speak. I found the city of Amsterdam very ordinary as opposed to extraordinary. Would l go as far as to say Amsterdam sucks? Not quite, but it’s pretty close.
How about you? Have you been to Amsterdam? Do you share my feelings or do you think l am totally off the mark? Maybe it’s one of those places that deserve a second chance?
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I’ve heard a few people say the same thing about Amsterdam. The canals really do seem lovely but that probably isn’t enough to fall in love with the city! I enjoyed reading about your trip though, the good and the bad. Very helpful ๐
Happy travels!
Thanks Lauren. I’m glad to hear that l am not the only knew who feels this way. I suppose not every place can be fantastic for everyone, right? Thanks for commenting..
I seem to end up in Amsterdam every few years. I guess I never had ‘high’ expectations, but I am usually satisfied with the people watching, history, museums, canal tours, and Heineken brewery. It’s become very touristy and overpriced the last time we were there, and I’ve never made it in to the Anne Frank House, but heard it’s quite anticlimactic. You can get out to the countryside quite inexpensively which helps. Having a family, it’s value lies in being relatively easy and accessible, but that probably waters down the charm.
It really was expensive. I don’t mind paying for things that are worth it, but everything was priced for the tourist. Even in the suburb we stayed in, we had sushi, 20 pieces, of which 8 of the pieces was California Roll, and it was โฌ34!!! (You know l had to buy some Doritos on the way home as l was still hungry..lol!). Maybe l did have too high of an expectation. That’ll teach me won’t it? Lol!!!
Never been to Amsterdam, but it’s also on my list thanks to its Coffee Shops ๐ I personally find it really nice judging from your pictures, but I didn’t know it is so incredibly expensive. The food looks great, though and the fact that I didn’t have breakfast yet doesn’t help :)) And the tattooed lady in the first pic from the Red District… she looks really good too ๐
She had a tattoo?? I am laughing so hard, l didn’t notice. I didn’t look at it too closely..lol! I think you would like it then, except for the expensive part. I was such a thicko, it wasn’t till l just happened to mention to my husband how nobody had any coffee when he explained to me..duh! We were having a beer across the way and l was actually curious about the sex shop that you can see next to the coffee shop..lol
Yes, I’ve been to Amsterdam. It really is a mix bag but I still quite like it. As a girl, I obviously have to move beyond the sex shops and the sleazy old men, and they usually are old men as young guys don’t really have the balls to do anything more than stare LOL!
I like the fact that Amsterdam a river city, very walkable, gay-friendly and with lots of really interesting museums and galleries and with plenty to do. It can even be charming. In the right light!
The river cruises are great, the Royal Palace of Amsterdam is beautiful, and if it all gets too much Volendam (a lovely Dutch village) where they have traditional windmills and cheese, isn’t that far away.
It’s been a few years since I was last there so I can’t remember what I ate and how, LOL! But I do remember eating at restaurants on side streets rather than the main-streets and generally people-watching. Maybe ‘cos I’m British, I didn’t particularly notice the high prices. Everywhere is high in comparison to Berlin LOL!
Thanks for the lovely write-up. ๐
I’ve never been to Amsterdam, but I kind of felt meh about Florence. I know so many people who would say I’m crazy for saying that, but it was loud, had lots of mosquitoes, and I think I was “art-ed” out by that point. ๐ I did like Tuscany overall though but preferred the quieter Siena.
Maybe we’re just getting old..lol! I can understand your feelings about Florence. I love it and have been thrice, but l loved San Giminiano , close to Siena way better.its nice to have so many choices, and l’d hate for everyone to have exactly the same tastes.
I absolutely loved Amsterdam for the few days that I was there several years ago – I’ve always fantasized about moving there. It seems that the ladies in the red light district are a lot more scantily clad these days though. In any case, I understand that it’s hard to gel with a place when it’s really expensive and when you’re just not having the ideal experience there (you know I feel the same about Budapest). But you gave it a fair shot, and that’s what counts!
The hubby had fantasized of living there as well based on his past visits, but even he had to admit the costs had risen considerably. It felt like Budapest for you! Good thing we are all different.. The ladies certainly were very skimpily dressed..lol
I’m so sorry to hear Amsterdam didn’t meet your expectations! I’ve always disliked it, although it has been because of different reasons.
As a Dutchie i can confirm there are better places in holland to be spending your time in, however you did pick the most touristy places of the city. That means costs adding up quickly, just like in any other capital city. There are many great (and sort of affordable) places to visit and eat at if you search outside of the center. The Jordaan is a great place to wander around in and grab a bite. So is ‘de Pijp’.
About the red light district: I really don’t get why it’s still so popular among tourists. Like you said, the women look tired and unhappy and most of them are. What many people don’t know is the fact that there’s still a huge problem with sex traffic and illegal prostitutes in the city (and throughout the country). The red light district especially is still a place of drug and sex related crimes. The government is trying to get a grip on the situation by cleaning out the red light district, making it a place for designers and other creatives. Unfortunately it’s still a place where I don’t feel safe in.
I do hope you return one day, if only to see similar cities like Haarlem or Leiden. Both great places without the touristy feel of Amsterdam ๐
Thanks for the comment Rose. Looking back, l realize that maybe my expectations were indeed too high. I know when people tell me they don’t like London, l freak out ๐ as it is my favorite place that l have been so far and something keeps drawing me back. You know the bartender that l had mentioned told us that he lived outside of the city, and that it was more affordable. I wish l could remember the name of the suburb that we had stayed at. It was nice, but very expensive there too, so we would have to go even further out. If we had stayed longer, we probably would have dug deeper, but on a visit to Amsterdam, l wanted to do the touristy things :-). I hope they do eventually get a grip on the situation at the red light district. It sucks to hear about the sex traffic. I felt for those women, l really did. I can imagine what it does to the self esteem. My husband had always said if he were to pick a place to live, it would be London and Amsterdam a close second. He changed his mind on our visit (he had been there years before), but we wouldn’t mind going back to another part, like the cities you mention. I will be on the lookout for those places. Thanks again for the suggestions, Andiamo l say if l find a good flight ๐ .
Yeah, I get it. I would visit the touristy things too of course. If you do find a flight back, let me know! I’ll personally make sure you’ll fall in love with Leiden! ๐ (Oh and I love London too!)
Will do! Thanks for the offer. I took a look at Leiden, it is beautiful ๐ .
Hi,
As a resident of Amsterdam – I choose to settle here about five years ago – I can say that one of the pressing issues is the way that tourism has affected the city in certain areas. From your pictures you seem to have chosen these areas mostly, but there are many better! And we are taking action against the worst tourist excesses so perhaps the center will recover in time.
But even so, my shortlist was Stockholm, Paris, Copenhagen, Barcelona and London – all places I have lived and worked. I chose Amsterdam and have not regretted it for a second!
Perhaps you need to try again with a better guide. The city is anything but ordinary.
Regards,
Mike
Hi Mike!
First of all thanks a lot for your comment and for taking the time to point out why l might have had those feelings. Amsterdam much like other popular cities is experiencing such major shifts in tourism that it’s hard to grasp. I was just reading an article of what Amsterdam is trying to do to combat the drunk tourists that litter too.
The first time l visited Barcelona, I didn’t like it much either and yes, the second time it was a lot better, not wonderful, but better. I think l had to get out of the “touristy” places. I think next time, I will try other areas, someone suggested Rotterdam which sounds great to me.
Your shortlist of cities sound amazing. London is my favorite city in the world and would live there in a heartbeat. Paris is a close second. I absolutely adored Copenhagen and Stockholm but both really expensive, too expensive for my blood :-). I’m glad you’re having an awesome time in Amsterdam. Sounds like the perfect fit for you. Mine is Valencia. Just the right size.
The red light is not “sex trafficking” it is a professional area (they pay taxes, have a trade union etc) which is widely misunderstood. It is an area safe for the workers and the clients and because it is above board any illicit activity seen is easy to report because the business is not a crime. Some exploitation occurs but way less than anywhere else.
ext time perhaps you should visit the Museum of Prostitution – somewhat misleading named Red Light Secrets – which is a non-exploitative, non titillating, factual and unbiased exhibition of what it is really all about – good and bad. It is well worth a visit.
Hi Mike,
I didn’t say they were sex trafficking at all. They are grown people who made the decision to offer their services for money and l know they pay taxes and it’s a profession, It may not be everyone’s cup of tea. My thing was that those girls, at least the one l saw had a tiredness about them, and l expected them to have more customers. Instead it seemed most tourists just go to gawk, and then go to the bars to drink and l’m pretty sure they go back home and lie :-).
I love the fact that there is a museum for everything imaginable, including prostitution. I might just have to start a separate blog. I already have enough asshats spamming me who think El Born as in Barcelona means El Porn :-). I can just imagine how crazy they would go with that :-).
“The” red light district is only one of several areas and sex workers mostly prefer the outlying ones to being gawked at by tourists.Guided tours of the main district have already been banned and further measures are planed. Not for any moral reasons, simply to provide a better environment for a traditional and legal trade. As for the tiredness – yes. It is a constant, wearying hassle in the main district, and besides – basically the job is very boring. I’ve heard it described as long dull period punctuated by sex with strangers. But when the average transaction is six minutes, from tapping on the door to leaving, it doesn’t use much time.
It’s nice to know the government is being proactive as it seemed to be getting out of hand. Six minutes!!! Wow!that is much quicker than l thought!!! :-). I can imagine how dull and tiring it must be for them.
I completely agree with you. I am 26 so kind of young I guess, but even then there are so many better places to party like Berlin and Prague that are WAY more cheaper and as much fun, if not more. I partied in Berlin and it was much more fun. But I guess drugs are much easier to find in Amsterdam.
The place is just too commercialized now, you only see tourists everywhere.
Either ways I still recommend people visit Amsterdam but definitely not more than 2 days. There are a lot of interesting cities and small towns close to Amsterdam to visit instead like Rotterdam, Groningen, Hague and Utrecht.
Thanks for adding a “young” voice to the discussion. I really thought l might have been just too old and l just didn’t get it. You’re right, it is way too much at this point and l know the city is trying to curb the over tourism. I did enjoy my visit to Berlin as well. While l didn’t love Prague, I didn’t dislike it as much as l did Amsterdam.
I would definitely love to visit Rotterdam. I am hearing good things and hopefully won’t become like its neighbor. Utrecht, l also like the looks of so l would definitely like to visit.
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated :-).
I love your article. The beauty of Amsterdam is gone because the real Amsterdam people are mostly gone. It has become more a yuppy kitty that a city for the common Amsterdam people. I don’t know if you went to Lam Yin. A Surinam/Chinese restaurant at the beginning of Warmoesstraat (ne CS Amsterdam) They have good food for an affordable price. Nothing fancy, but good. Amsterdam has become an average city like the rest of Europe because of the Multinational shops. It is not the same anymore with the little shop owners it had in the 80s. Haarlemmerdijk is a bit normal less touristic street, where you can find some real/more daily Amsterdam life. The real Amsterdam people have lots of humor even when they’re mad. But that’s something that is been seen ver rarely nowadays. Like… When a guy sees a friend he will say; “Hey ugly one! Did they allow you to be in the streets?” And the other will respond: “Your mirror must be broken, otherwise you would have stayed at home” This is how ‘real’ Amsterdam people use to talk to each other with a smile. Because life is a joke and you better make it funny. ๐ โ But that is mostly gone โ Sometime you’ll find it at a weekly market just outside the city center at the Albert Cuyp.
I can just imagine how frustrating it must be for someone from Amsterdam to see what the city is becoming/ has become and remember how it used to be. I’m all for people discovering new places and traveling, but sometimes l shake my head at the horrible behaviours. It’s like being away from home gives them a license to be asshats with cleanliness, disturbing the peace and getting drunk. The little shops do indeed get crowded out and everyplace starts to look the same with the big name brands etc.
The same thing that is happening in other places like Barcelona and Venice for instance. Valencia is trying to prevent the same by tackling AirBnB and others like it before it gets to the point of no return. I think the desire for the tourist dollars outweighed the needs of the people for a long time and now all are grappling with the rash decisions. Hopefully they can work out something that will help both sides.
I think if l visit Amsterdam area, I will opt for Rotterdam. Haha! I love the local humour. It sounds idyllic, and definitely something that l would participate in. Life is indeed a joy and laughter is the best medicine. Thanks for the laugh, it really cracked me up :-).