January 30, 2023
We have just returned from a two-week trip to Italy with stops in Turin, Parma, Modena, and finally Bologna. I am of course writing this backward. I dubbed the trip Mangiapalooza because we did a whole lot of eating.
If you follow us on Instagram, you have probably seen some of the pictures of food already. I have tried to use mostly different ones for this post.
*** Bologna can now add the words UNESCO World Heritage Status to its accolades as it has just been awarded that for the breathtaking porticoes that are in the city. Imagine it took only 1,000 years.
Bologna, Italy. The name alone conjures up visions of rich food and gorgeous medieval architecture. The largest city of the Emilia-Romagna region of Northern Italy was lovely to revisit and no doubt we will come back again.
If you love delicious, hearty food, l encourage you to visit. Bologna is usually referred to as “The Fat, the Red, and the Wise” and for good reason. Here’s the best Bologna guide.
Bologna Italy Guide:
Getting from Rome to Bologna by train or Air:
Bologna has an international airport called the Guglielmo Marconi. It is located about five miles from the city center. Airlines like Emirates and British Airways as well as smaller, low-cost airlines such as Ryanair all land there, so you have options.
You can get to the center on the train called Marconi Express and the journey time is about seven minutes to the central train station. Another option is by taxi which costs about 20-25 euros.
The Bologna central station is the 5th busiest one in Italy. The Rome to Bologna train was at Rome’s Termini station and the whole journey was just under two hours. The price per ticket runs about €29 ($31.50). They also have slower trains that will get you there in 2.5 hours for slightly cheaper.
It’s a good idea to book at least 48 hours in advance as the price is lower still. Also, make sure to check for special deals. For instance in the summer, on Tuesdays, all tickets were just €15. The trains are very nice and the seats very comfortable too. We went with Italo, but you can also go with Trenitalia. It certainly provided a nice train to Bologna ride :-).
Visit Bologna: What is Bologna known for?
Bologna La Rossa (the Red)
This refers to the reddish and other bright colors of its buildings. It also has to do with the red color of the flag and past fascist history. They are certainly red-wise as the color just jumps at you.
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Federico has always said that if he were ever to move back to Italy, that is one of the few places he would consider. After this second visit, l am in full agreement and l enjoyed looking at the realtors’ windows and dreaming.
It’s different from other Italian cities. It doesn’t have the frenetic pace of Rome nor the sometimes exasperating throngs of tourists that visit Florence. It feels just right, much like Valencia to me. The size is just right too.
It being January, it was quite cold. Truthfully, that would be the biggest deterrent. Yikes! My body is no longer able to stand the cold but it was fun for a short time. Bologna is a popular holiday destination for Italians.
Being a college town, there are tons of younger people and a lot more English being spoken as we walked around. I daresay that one could get away with not speaking Italian now.
Bologna is also a city of porticoes. Lots of them are quite long and very picturesque. They are simply wow! Now l know why l could live in this picturesque city.
Where to stay in Bologna Italy: Hotel Academia
After several days (maybe even weeks) scouring the internet trying to find a hotel that fulfilled my requirements which were:
- Center of town
- Free breakfast
- Free WiFi
- Affordable
We found it super convenient to do our Bologna sightseeing from this base. We would definitely recommend it highly for the personal service and the abundant offerings for breakfast.
I ruled out AirBnB because once again, it disappointed me. The prices were higher than a lot of the hotels. The Hotel Accademia ended up ticking all the boxes. The price was right, the room was big and everywhere was walkable. Winning! The hotel is a family-owned one. It is located on a very convenient street, meaning we only could walk everywhere.
The staff was excellent. They gave us recommendations for restaurants and they were spot on. There were so many places to eat in the area. For foodies like us, it was awesome. The room was big. Would l stay there again? Absolutely. Fresh and unlimited cappuccino and espresso at breakfast too, even scrambled eggs and toast for Americanos…haha!
You can book your stay at Hotel Accademia in Bologna.
Bologna Tours:
One of the best things to do in Bologna to familiarize yourself with the city is to take one of the various tours offered by companies. A great way to learn more about the history and what’s on in the city, insights that you might not get on your own. Here is a selection from Get your Guide, a company we have used many times in our travels.
Bologna City Guide: What to do in Bologna:
- Visit palazzo Carrati
- See the hidden canals
- Visit the museums such as Civic Museum
- Piazza Maggiore
- Visit the Two Towers of Bologna
- Basilica di Santa Maria dei Servi
- Piazza Santo Stefano
- Visit the remains of the old wall
- Basilica di San Petronio
- Visit the Fountain of Neptune (Update: Now open after refurbishment)
Visit Museums in Bologna:
There are plenty of museums in Bologna if you’re inclined to visit, including the Archaeological Civic Museum and Palazzo Poggi Museum. There are in fact over 50 Bologna museums and galleries. We wanted to be outside as it was great weather and soak in the city, so we skipped those and saved them for next time.
There were two obscure things l wanted to see in Bologna;
- A glimpse of the hidden canals. Bet you didn’t know that Bologna had canals like Venice. Used to anyway. Most have long been covered, with roads built on top, not drained. In the middle ages, canals were built to bring water from the river into the city for the people. They were also good for transporting goods. As usual, motorized vehicles became the norm and they had to go. It took us a long while to find one, with lots of walking and locals pointing us the right way. Most had forgotten or didn’t even know they existed :-). The one with the best vantage point is at Via Piella. There is even a window cutout for a serene view.
- Palazzo Carrati: For a brief moment in time, a teenage Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart studied in Bologna, under the tutelage of the Giovanni Battista Martini (Padre Martini). Can l just say l had a few minutes of glee walking back and forth on the steps knowing at some point, Mozart actually walked on them. I pictured the neighbors groaning and cursing since the houses were so close to each other..like.. “oh no, not that f*****g song again” ! 🙂 .
The other touristy things to see in Bologna include:
Piazza Maggiore Bologna:
Basilica di San Petronio:
The very heart of Bologna. It was the central marketplace of the city, beginning in the 13th century. It is still a popular gathering place for the locals and of course tourists. There are plenty of restaurants and bars to just chill and people-watch.
There are a couple of palaces quite close by. What l loved most about the city was just walking around and seeing all the plaques on the really old buildings. Some were built before Columbus discovered America!!! Imagine that! And they are still standing too. Why can’t they build them like this anymore l ask you?
The Two Towers Bologna:
Bologna is thought to have had about 180 towers during the 12th and 13th centuries. Quite a lot for sure. The rich people were supposedly using them for defensive or offensive purposes during the power struggle between the church and the monarchs.
There are few towers left, about 14 estimated. These two have become symbols of Bologna though. The taller one is called the Asinelli Tower (97m). The shorter, the Garisenda Tower (48m). They look kind of precarious to me, so I’m sure they will eventually collapse. We did not climb up.
Piazza Santo Stefano Bologna:
This little plaza was one of my favorites. It was quieter and the stones on the ground glistened. I wasn’t at all impressed with the church itself, but the piazza wowed me. Its porticoes looked better somehow. The bricks, the design, everything just blended so well together. It was pleasant to have a drink and watch the children playing.
Basilica di Santa Maria dei Servi:
This was way more impressive on the inside than on the outside. Very lovely interior, especially the Holy Virgin statue. There was a service going on, so we tried not to intrude, but l would recommend a visit.
These are just some things to do in the city. Other best things to do in Bologna include visiting the Palazzo d’Accurcio, Basilica San Domenico, the Archinnginasio Bologna library, University of Bologna to name just a few.
Bologna City Guide to La Grassa (The Fat): What to eat in Bologna, Italy
Now, onto my favorite part. We are foodies and so we ate with gusto. Here are some of the typical food found in the region that we chowed on. Just looking at these photos makes me hungry all over again.
Let’s face it, this is probably the most popular reason for visiting Bologna, and in fact the whole Emilia Romana region. Needless to say, we ate well, very well indeed. We also walked a lot, therefore we felt zero guilt with all the rich food and wine.
I’ll just let the photos do the talking. We ate very well. Prices have definitely gone up a lot since our last visit, but that is true for the rest of the world. A plate of spaghetti with clams averaged about $16. The pizzas were about 10 dollars. I am so completely spoiled that it really takes a lot for me to be impressed with Italian food, and l was duly impressed, as was Fede. I do wonder if fat red refers to the rich food combined with the abundant red wine :-).
Bologna Guide To La Dotta (The Wise):
Bologna has the world’s first and oldest university. The University of Bologna was founded in 1088. It has notable alumni such as Pope Alexander VI, Marconi (inventor of the radio), Giorgio Armani, Enzo Ferrari, and the poet Dante. We, unfortunately, did not get to explore it. I would have liked to. The Ferrari museum was a bit too costly for us as we preferred to spend it on food. When you hear Red Bologna or Red Wise, you now know what it refers to.
Whether you spend 48 hours in Bologna, less or more, you’re sure to find something to hold your interest. Amazing day trips to wineries, maybe a tour of the Ferrari factory might be more to your liking? Overall, from our observations, we find the cost of living in Bologna to be less than in Rome and Florence, perhaps because it is a college town and a popular destination that seems to be getting more known to foreigners.
Overall, we really enjoyed our visit to Bologna and look forward to visiting it again at some point. l can’t imagine it would ever be “Rome crowded” or even Florence crowded, and that might just be a good thing for someone looking for culture and history and world-class culinary delights. Like l said, if it weren’t for the cold, l could definitely live here.
Needless to say, we brought back a little stash of balsamic vinegar and cheese, and pancetta so we will be happy for a while.
Is Bologna worth a visit?
The answer is most definitely yes! Bologna is still one of the most pleasant cities in Italy. The best part is that you get a more authentic view of Italian life and there are so many ways to spend your time in the city. As more students arrive from all over the world, you can expect it to become even more cosmopolitan and the prices to keep rising. Pretty much like popular destinations such as Valencia now and Porto. You can also do day trips to nearby cities such as Florence and Milan which opens up more possibilities for discovering the region.
The train costs as little as €4 ($4.35) to get from city to city believe it or not and the trains are clean and fast too. If you want assigned seats, expect to pay about 16 euros per person.
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What do you think of Bologna? Have you ever been to Italy? If not, would you like to go? Would it be for the culture or for the food? If you’ve been, would you go again?
So gorgeous and romantic with a feeling of timelessness – your photos are awesome. I love the colors, mustard yellows and faded reds, the arches of all the porticos and the sense of centuries-old history that must have followed you everywhere. We love staying in places that were once used for something quite different and hearing the stories behind them. Your room at the Hotel Pedrini looks comfortable and unlike AirBnB, you had the added benefit of plenty of staff to get tips from too. I know that Federico’s cooking has spoiled you but OMG the food looks fabulous – It looks like you sampled an amazing variety. 🙂 Bologna looks like a “must see” in Italy and you can bet it will be at the top of our list when we visit this area! Anita
It is definitely everything you said and more. I could definitely live there as well. I knew l would like it if Fede considered it as a place to live because he definitely is extremely reluctant to move back to Italy to live :-). The room was really big, as was the bathroom and it really is cool that it was a monastery. We too love staying at places with history. Haha! I am spoiled with his cooking, the food there is definitely good. It is a bit off the beaten part as most people get off in Florence which is the stop just before Bologna, but l think it’s worth it. Hope you guys are enjoying your trip. Can’t wait to hear all about it 🙂 .
Wow! What a great trip! Italy has been on my list of places to visit. Your pics are gorgeous I just want to jump into them! I love the reds and other colors and the architecture. The view of the canal is really cool too!
Haha! I love what you said about wanting to jump into the photos. That would be cool :-). It really is a beautiful country, so much history. Federico takes it for granted of course, just like we do of our homes. He gets to see it anew through my eyes though. I loved the canal view, wish they had more than like 3 or so left.
Kemkem this is one of your best blogs ever! And, it has made me vow to return to Bologna to find the places you found and I missed! Thank you! Lamia
Wow! Thanks Lamia. I really appreciate that comment. We for sure will return to visit as we really loved it. So did his mom :-). It was a nice change from Rome for her. It is such a charming place, and the food 🙂 was awesome.
I love Italy!! This reminds me of Amalfi coast.. I can’t wait to go back to Italy
I love it too 🙂 . Hope you get to go back soon.
The Bolognese (is that correct?) sure liked their red paint..
Plenty of interesting architecture & I’m in love with those porticoes. It’s all been there for centuries- don’t be too sure those towers won’t hang around for a couple more hundred years;-)
Glad you are feeling better, it’s not fun being ill on holiday or experiencing anti- migrant graffiti. Thank goodness for great company & yummy food to counter some of the ugliness around.
Thanks Lili. The sickness happened so quickly. I ended up bringing it back to Rome with me and was laid up for a couple more days. You’re right, l’m sure those towers will hang on for at least 200 more years haha! They sure knew how to build them. They love their deep red colors, so glad as l really enjoyed seeing them. Yeah..some people just can’t share. Twats!
This part of Italy is absolutely breathtaking! Your pictures are so vivid too. Excellent documentary of a beautiful trip!
Yes, it is absolutely breathtaking. It really is 🙂 . Thanks a lot for the compliment. We really enjoyed ourselves.
Beautiful city. I would love to see it myself.
Hope you get your wish.
The views were incredible. I love the canals, they are simply gorgeous. I need to experience that in real life.
That calzone was huge, OMG. The basicilaca was a beauty as well.
Yes, the calzone was humongous! Fede ate it all up :-). So glad we persisted and found that canal. Too bad there are so few left. I really could see us living there at some point.
Bologna is a very beautiful city, judging from your photos. Thanks so much for sharing. The architecture of the buildings is breathtaking.
I agree. It is a very beautiful city. So much history. It’s just amazing how everything has held up after all these centuries 🙂
We were close to visiting Bologna during our last year’s trip through Europe and it eventually lost to Verona simply because the latter made our future trips a lot easier. It’s pretty obvious now that we should’ve at least visited it as it’s a short train ride away from Verona. It’s absolutely beautiful indeed, especially those canals that I had no idea about. I’m not sure how idyllic it is to live there as there are might be inconveniences (mosquitoes come to mind now), but it looks like a dream place to live in for a while in one of those apartments near the canals! We definitely have to visit it when we get there next time!
I think there’s only about 4 canals left uncovered in the whole city which is kind of a shame. I guess that’s why they are the hidden canals of Bologna. I think l would be spoiled though and would have to find a way to be in the dead center where we stayed. I kept saying “this one”.. “no, this one” pointing to the buildings l would like to live in. :-). Funny, Verona hasn’t really been on my list of desires. I wouldn’t mind seeing it though. I think you and the Mrs. wuld really like Bologna. Yeah.. l picture floweres on the balcony overlooking the canal. Didn’t smell like Venice though (will never understand how people can last on the gondola ride, l would throw up), so a very good thing.
Kemkem, you had me at the title. I am a Bolognese and yet have never been to Bologna. I would love to go and visit and walk on the footsteps of my grandfather, he was born there and apparently his house is still there. I love Italian food and your photos made me miss my mothers cooking, she did the best Italian pasta. Do you speak Italian? Has Federico been teaching you? Thank you for this great post????
Oh wow! I knew you had an Italian background, but didn’t realize you were Bolognese.. Lucky 🙂 . You come from a beautiful place. I really hope you get to visit and see your roots. Yeah, the buildings were really made to last, so l have no doubt his house is still standing :-). I love Italian food too. I don’t speak Italian. I understand quite a bit more now. It gets very confusing as l am trying to learn Spanish and l mix everything up because l sometimes think in my primary language, translate that to English, then translate that to Spanish and my the time l catch up, l’m lost..haha.. I know a lot of swear words though as that’s all l hear when he watches football 😉 . I’m glad you like the post.
Actually we enjoyed Bologna! Loved the porticos, the towers (and I climbed the Asinelli tower – a LONG way up up you get plane-like views), and the churches. We actually both liked the Basilica de Santo Stefano which is unlike most churches, it’s actually a complex of 7 really really old churches, felt like something out of one of those medieval movies (actually dates back from 430 AD)
Overall lots to see and very compact center. We saw it as a day trip from Padova and were impressed.
Frank (bbqboy)
It’s hard not to enjoy Bologna. I think l could have used another couple of days to check out some more things. Yeah, l remember you talking about climbing the tower..no thank you :-). Those complex of the churches was just amazing, but l loved the piazza itself more than anything. I can’t describe how it made me feel, or maybe it was the way the sun was..but it was amazing. Yep..7 churches.. I only saw one but was unimpressed. I totally got why Fede said he could live there. So could l 🙂
Never been to Italy before! The food look delicious! I love the structure, architecture and the vibrant colors of the building. Seems like you had a great time in Italy! I want to ride the train it looks sleek and my favorite color is red.
The food is really good everywhere. You didn’t have to go to the fancy restaurants for great food which is really cool. Italy is beautiful and so historical. Yeah..Bologna is rich in everything. I think you would really love it. My favorite color is yellow, but l did like the red of these trains 🙂
Such beautiful architecture! And I know that pizza was delicious!
Really beautiful..and oh yes, very delicious 🙂
I didn’t know Bologna had such gorgeous waterways.
I’ve only been to Rome and Montecatini. You’re making me want to go back.
Haha! Good. Yes it does, but unfortunately not many left from the old days. There are so many other places in Italy that l still want to explore…sigh..;-)
Wow I knew Italy was gorgeous but your photos captured everything beautifully! Italy is on my MUST GO list. This post will be a great reference.
You know it’s on when there are classifications to the list..must go..wouldn’t mind going..etc..etc.. I do the same thing 🙂 . Italy deserves to be on the must go list though. Totally worth it. So much living history..that’s what gets me.
Bologna has never been on my radar but it is now. What a beautiful city. Great pics!!
It usually gets passed over for Florence, but it’s only a half hour away via train and worth it, even if for just a day. It really is gorgeous.
Italy is def one of the spots on my bucket list! Thanks for the beautiful pictures. The food price are a deal I love especially.
Haha! Yep! l was surprised at how cheap the meals were and the regular eateries had really good food. Glad it’s on your bucket list…so worth it :-).
This looks nice to go to some day! I love fast trains. I loved the architecture you showed, the quirky canals that you hunt for that people have forgotten. And LOL about your Mozart line!—Terri
It was all l could think about seeing that school. Since they were like row houses, it would have been impossible not to hear the music, and even though he was a child prodigy, l would imagine the neighbors would have been sick of hearing him. The train was pretty sleek. It’s the latest train company and compared to the state owned ones which l’ve taken before, you notice. I think you would like Bologna :-).
I’m so glad I ate before looking at your post. With out fail every time I read one of your post I leave HUNGRY. LOL #youtakegreatpictures. my favorite in this post isTagliatelle with Bolognese sauce, because it looks like something I can make at home and succeed.
Haha! Perhaps l should start the posts with a warning.. “food ahead” kind of thing. Thanks for the compliment. Year, making the sauce from scratch makes a difference and l think you could make it easily enough. Fede always makes it from scratch, simple and delicious 🙂 .
What attractive photos on this post – all those reds and porticos are stunning! The food just jumps off the page as well, though I’m with you on how lovely it is to have a husband who cooks well 🙂 Sorry you weren’t feeling well; I’m glad at least it was at the end of your trip.
I knew it would be beautiful, just had no idea how much so. I’m with Federico in that l could live there. Yep! It’s nice to have an in house cook :-), especially one who enjoys it. Thank goodness it was the end of the trip that l got sick, it would have been horrible otherwise. Being sick in Rome was no biggie as l do get there often enough so l didn’t feel so bad.
Hi Kemkem! I feel so behind in the blogosphere – lol. I need to catch up on some of your posts. I really love the picture of the canal through the window – beautiful! I had no idea that Bologna is the site of the first university…very interesting. It’s such a cute city. The next time we’re in Rome, we’ll definitely have to prioritize a side trip to Bologna. Now I’m curious to taste Federico’s food. I can only imagine based on your pictures that the food in Bologna must be really good, so if you weren’t really impressed, that can only mean one thing…it’s time for Federico to open a restaurant! Has he ever thought about it?
Hello there! Sometimes it’s good to go AWOL! 🙂 . I was really happy we found that canal. I almost had us give up after walking for over an hour in the heat, but it was worth it. Yeah, l think a trip to Bologna is definitely worth it. The food is definitely good. Federico gets really nervous cooking for more than 4 or 6 people at a time..so yeah..we had thought about it at some point, but did not. When we lived in Houston, he did sometimes give lessons to the housewives in the subdivision as a side hustle when we started saving to move. He loves to talk, he loves to cook..so it was a good fit :-).
‘Loooooove the photographs. Powerful reds and yellows, and look at those mussels. Just so Italy!
I haven’t yet been to Bologna, but I’ve been to Itally many times. It’s one of my favourite countries and a country that The Music Producer wouldn’t mind to retire to, he said! Culture! History! Food! Awesome people!
p.s. I’m not surprised that you prefer Federico’s cooking.Who wouldn’t? Having been lucky enough to taste his skill, I would agree. You lucky girl! 🙂 🙂
I agree with the Music Producer. There are really nice places to retire to in Italy. I have a feeling we will eventually settle there :-), a long time from now. I told him l wanted to do the Under the Tuscan Sky thing, and he said no :-(. The food was really good, but..you know..haha! Yes, l am indeed lucky 😉
Your blog stirs up the wanderlust in me I’ve been suppressing. And the pics in the last post make me really hungry.
Don’t suppress it anymore..haha! Glad the food images made you hungry. We totally loved eating the food 🙂
What a beautiful article. I love the pictures and the story detail. I feel like a was there with you experiencing this place. Love the food pics too. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. I enjoyed the read.
Thank you so much for this comment. It was the first thing l saw this morning, and what a way to make my day. Thank you so much for reading. We really appreciate it :-). Bologna is a beautiful place.
I just fell in love with Bologna from your photos. All the hues of yellow and red interplaying to bright and sunny days. And those colors include the food. We will go, after all Bolognese sauce is our favorite of all Italian sauces!
Now you’re speaking Federico’s language! He loves his Bolognese sauce too :-). I could definitely see why he wouldn’t mind living there, because l would like it too. The food and the beauty makes for an awesome combination. Close to Florence but not as packed either.
Thx for amazing post about Bologna, Italy, Kemkem. It is a city I’ve longed to visit. After seeing all your great pics, I will have to plan another trip to Italy!
Thanks for reading Doreen. I definitely fell in love and l think you would too. Thanks for the compliment as well :-).
Thanks for taking me back to one of my favorite cities in the whole world!! Bologna is a gem~
You’re right. Bologna really is a gem. Still under the radar and a delightful lace to visit.
OMG, we love Bologna and this literally had my mouth-watering. . .and I had just eaten dinner. Greet report and you so captured this fabulous city!!
Hahah! Good to hear about the drooling. They certainly know how to do food right.. there. I wouldn’t mind living there at all :-).
Bologna has canal(s)?!!!! I had it on my list for the food alone, but now that I know there’s some obscure little factoid like this, I’ll make it my mission to find it, too!
Yes it does. Bologna was more like Venice then with the canals that sadly have disappeared. It was a thrill finally finding one of the last ones. Yes, in addition to the food, you must find this canal close to the center. I hope you enjoy it all, and thanks for reading. 🙂
For some reason, I never realized Bologna had canals! The canal with all the pretty colored buildings is amazing! And the food looks yummy. Can’t wait to go back to Italy!
They had loads of them that eventually disappeared. What a shame..but in many ways, it could doomed it to become another Venice..so 🙂 . The fod was great and hope you get back there soon.
I both love and hate this post. I love it because it tells me soooooo much about Bologna. I have wanted to visit this city for years. I have always tried to talk it up as a base for two weeks to a month from which to visit other areas/cities of Italy. Trains are so easy from there.
I hate it because of the photos of all the wonderful food!!!! I just want to eat all of it. Great photos!
Thanks for the great information and photos.
You made me laugh with your love and hate comment. Bologna is indeed a great base for seeing the rest of the cities close by. For sure l know if we ever to move to Italy, it would be there :-). Haha! We indeed had wonderful food, and now you have me itching to go back :-).
Amazing city indeed… and the food looks (and I am sure – tastes) incredible. I am a huge fan of Mortadella – as well as Bolognese sauce – so this is definitely one city that I have on my list for a long time now. It’s nice to see that it also looks beautiful and there’s plenty to do besides eating. As you said, it’s all better when you get to walk a lot after a feast.
I totally get why Fede would move there and it’s at least half based on the food. Incredible, you would like it for sure, and it deserves to be on the list. Yes, walking has to be a big part of your itinerary, otherwise, one needs to wear stretchy pants :-).